For around 300,000 years, humanity has been walking around this planet in almost the same way, spreading from Africa to Asia and across the entire earth, covering all those miles without shoes. The oldest pair of shoes that archaeologists stumbled upon during excavations is just under 9,000 years old.
At the beginning of their life, almost everyone in this country has healthy feet, but over time half of them can say goodbye to them, because hardly any other part of the body is as tormented as our feet. The range of deformities extends from stilettos and platform shoes to tight designer shoes and sneakers with much too soft padding. Our feet are a biomechanical miracle that knows exactly how to absorb shocks. No additional cushioning is needed for this. There are 20 muscles, 26 bones, 33 joints, over 100 ligaments and more than 200 tendons in each foot. Feet are tactile organs like our hands. We use them to sense our environment. The soles of our feet sense bumps, inclines, soft or hard surfaces and transmit all this information to our brain. This in turn influences our movement coordination. Unfortunately, conventional shoes hardly or not at all take their function as tactile organs into account. Rigid soles and thick padding may seem comfortable at first, but at the same time they prevent the foot from perceiving the impressions. By omitting such supportive elements and excessive cushioning, the feet, legs and entire lower body work much harder and are thus trained more than with normal shoes.
With so-called barefoot shoes, our feet can be used as nature intended. Their aim is to be based on the natural shape of the foot and to allow the foot the freedom to move naturally. A characteristic feature is the flat sole with the so-called zero heel: the heel and forefoot are always at the same height. Even sports and leisure shoes are often raised at the heel, which is not always visible from the outside and is often only a few centimeters. Even if this is not always actively perceived, it still has an effect on the whole body, because the angle between the foot and the ground is changed. The center of gravity in the body shifts and the back, muscles and joints are put under unnatural strain.
Barefoot shoes were invented by the South Tyrolean climber and industrial designer Robert Fliri in 2005. Soon after, the New York Times named his "FiveFingers" shoes among the best inventions of the year. Fliri came up with the idea in 1997, inspired by his childhood in the mountains, because when climbing mountains, people always wore high, heavy shoes that protected the foot but also prevented it from finding a natural balance for the strain on the body. At the Bolzano Academy of Design, his class was given the task of finding an optimization for a recreational sport of their choice. In a team with other students and teachers, he developed the idea of a shoe that you walk in as if you were barefoot. For the practical test, he tried to make a model out of old swimsuits , learning a lot about the complicated mechanics of the human foot. But he couldn't manage shoe production on his own and the usual shoe manufacturers at the time had little interest in the unusual model. Of course, the aesthetic value of these "gloves for feet", in which each toe is packed separately, is debatable; "frog feet" was the nicest nickname. After a long search and several rejections, he found a partner in the Italian sole manufacturer "Vibram" from Varese, who dared to take on the risky project. In 2002, he finally held the first prototype in his hands and three years later the first model came onto the market. In the USA, which is quite open to new things in such things, demand rose rapidly, so that the somewhat conservative European shoe industry was initially amazed at the success.
In 2006, the "Vibram Fivefingers" came to Germany , because Thorsten Ludwig, owner of a trading agency, recognized the potential of these unusual shoes and, little by little, introduced them to the market nationwide with his team. At the beginning, the entire range consisted of just 36 pairs of Fivefingers Classic Black. The shoes were stored in the attic at home and when we went on a short vacation to the North Sea, the most common sizes were packed in the trunk in case someone ordered shoes while we were away . In 2010, there were already two brands offering barefoot shoes in Germany, but since both had supply shortages, Thorsten Ludwig founded his own brand, "Sole Runner."
The market and the range of different suppliers have grown considerably and of course the models no longer necessarily look like frog feet. What all barefoot or minimal shoes have in common, however, is the wide toe box and a thin, flexible sole that comes as close as possible to the feeling of walking barefoot and still provides good protection against stones or sharp objects. The term "barefoot shoe" can be a bit misleading, as it suggests that the shoes should only be worn barefoot, i.e. without socks, or that the shoe shape is adapted to the foot and individual toes. This can be both, but it doesn't have to be.
The most well-known manufacturer at the moment is the German company "leguano", which now has a shop in almost every major city. The company has been growing steadily since it was founded in 2009. Founder Helmuth Ohlhoff , an enthusiastic long-distance runner, wanted a pair of shoes that made him feel as if he were running barefoot , as he was always struggling with pain on his runs . Walter Packi, the first German biokinematician, told him at a meeting that all runners actually run incorrectly. After a five-year development process, the leguano shoe was the culmination of this, representing an alternative to running with shoes, and not just for athletes . The company attaches great importance to purchasing and producing in Germany. This applies both to the outer materials of the shoes, which come from the Kunert company, and to the plastic of the soles. And the shoes are manufactured in Buchholz. The special hemispherical structure of the profile keeps the sole flexible in every direction .
What is striking about many manufacturers is that there are often exciting and empathetic stories behind their motivations for dealing with the subject matter. In addition , social and environmental considerations often play an important role for the companies. This is also the case with “Wildling” from Engelskirchen. There, attention is paid to regenerative sustainability, to production in partnership and a largely transparent supply chain, from the harvesting of resources from the gray-wool Pomeranian sheep to the loom in the oldest cloth maker's shop in Germany. In addition, value is placed on innovative materials from regenerative cultivation, such as hemp or even dog hair, and on the promotion of renaturation projects. Wildling was founded in 2015 through a crowdfunding campaign and has developed rapidly, with its origins being found in the children of the two founders, who mostly walked around barefoot in Tel Aviv, where Anna and Ran Yonas lived for a long time . Back in Germany, with its cold winter, this was of course no longer possible. When Anna couldn't find any shoes for her children that met her expectations, she sewed soft shoes herself and filled a gap in the market. Her husband Ran, as a sports therapist, trainer and passionate barefoot runner, brought the necessary expertise in the natural movement process. In the shoe metropolis of Pirmasens, the two learned the basics of shoemaking and soon found an Italian designer and a manufacturer in Portugal. A special feature in the range are the Tanuki shoes.
The Tanuki is mainly made of washi fabric, which
which in turn is made of 75% paper. The paper material is robust and breathable, the material makes the shoes particularly light and supple, which is particularly advantageous in summer because the material is extremely thin. Washi is also known as Japanese or rice paper. In addition to shoes, insoles are now also made with washi. Because the material dries very quickly and is tear-resistant, it is particularly suitable for this area of application.
While we're in Japan, let's talk about another typical feature of the country, the tabis - ankle-high socks with a big toe cut off. In Kyudo, the art of archery, as well as in other Japanese martial arts, tabis are the traditional footwear of the "warriors". The reinforced version, the Jika-Tabi, often has a rubber coating. The space between the big toe and the other toes is often used for climbing scaffolding or ladders, where skilled craftsmen can hold on to the struts with their toes. This is why they are particularly popular with Japanese construction workers, farmers and gardeners. Tabi shoes were originally made of leather and were used in the Heian period, over 1,200 years ago. Back then, the soles were also reinforced, but were usually made of fabric or straw. The founders of the tire company Bridgestone, the brothers Tokujirō and Shōjirō Ishibashi, are credited with inventing the Jika-Tabi with rubber soles in 1922. Jika-Tabi can be found in Japan in hardware stores, among other places, and in this country, Tabi from Japan are available in martial arts shops and also at Dictum, for example. In addition, this special shoe style is increasingly finding its way into the world of fashion.
The barefoot shoe brand "Vivobarefoot" comes from England. It has been part of the English Clark dynasty since 2009. The idea of founding a barefoot shoe brand came from two friends, Galahad Clark and Tim Brennan, who are both still firmly integrated into the company today. Galahad was born as the eldest son in the seventh generation of the dynasty, which has been in the shoe business for centuries. In Tim Brennan, he had found the perfect partner for his project, as the designer was just as enthusiastic about the idea of designing shoes that would allow people to walk barefoot without pain. At first, it was not easy for the two of them to convince the traditional company with their idea, as the concept of barefoot shoes contradicted all the ideas that had been held by the family for generations. But their persistence paid off, and today Vivobarefoot is Clark's most successful company. The shoes are made almost exclusively from recycled materials, such as PET bottles, and the leather is also tanned using purely vegetable-based methods. The durability of the soles of the shoes is also outstanding. With constant use, they last a good four to six years, longer than those of most other manufacturers.
Back to Germany: The company "Zaqq" produces near Leipzig, near Mark Kleeberg. The manufacturer entered the barefoot shoe market in summer 2014 with hand-sewn rubber soles that have an anti-slip structure. As an absolute quality feature, the entire sole is sewn to the shaft, which ensures long durability and a comfortable walking experience. The exposed strobel seam on the inside of the shoe allows a view of the craftsmanship and at the same time serves as a stylish contrast to the smooth leather on the side. Fine suede, barrel -tanned nappa leather and high-quality vegan materials are used .
The company "Freiluftkind" is based further north-west in Germany. When Lukas Westensee was on holiday by the sea with his father, who had a foot problem, and was looking for suitable shoes for him, he noticed that there were no models of barefoot shoes that were really suitable for the beach and the water. Some time later, he was hiking on the "Via Romea" pilgrimage route near Braunschweig, where the warehouse and company headquarters would later be located, when he noticed the shoes of a passing hiker. This hiker was his later co-founder, Christian Gehring. From a discussion of shop, the idea of developing barefoot shoes for being outdoors - for any terrain - arose. The shoes are currently produced in China, as that is where the highest level of expertise is. Freiluftkind is also committed to the environment, namely to the non-profit organisation "Tree Nation" and has already planted over 35,000 trees.
The aforementioned company "Sole Runner" comes from the very south of Germany, from Lake Ammersee, and its founder Thorsten Ludwig has been firmly established in the shoe industry since 1979. After a period with the traditional brand Salamander and several years in the field for various shoe brands, he had gained enough experience in 2005 and started his own business. He quickly recognized the potential of barefoot shoes, but could not find the type of shoes he wanted to offer to a wider range of buyers. So at the end of 2010 he decided to start his own brand by putting together a team of shoe specialists and meeting with last makers, shoe factories and suppliers. Less than half a year later, Sole Runner presented its first three models, the "T1 Allrounder", the "FX Trainer" and a boot that initially had no name and later became successful as the "Transition Vario".
Another German brand is "Groundies", founded in 2019 by Dirk Pfeffer. His claim is minimalism with style, the combination of design with an abrasion-resistant and recyclable high-tech sole made of lightweight TPU. Groundies are manufactured entirely in the EU, the design and soles come from Germany, and the shoes are sewn in Spain. High-quality materials are used, the shoes are made of breathable fabrics such as organic cotton, linen or recycled polyester, which are not only comfortable to wear, but are also produced sustainably and in an environmentally friendly way. And on top of that, a tree is planted for every pair ordered.
A completely different approach to direct ground contact without risk of injury are the chainmail shoes from "GoSt-Barefoot" from Mönchengladbach. Compared to other barefoot shoes, which can get dirty and wet in the field, the "Paleos" are a kind of supple knight's armor for the feet. The shoes are made from a stainless steel ring mesh, which is also used in bulletproof vests or for body protection in the meat industry. With the chainmail shoes you can walk over broken glass without worry, your feet remain safe when hiking in overgrown terrain, and if you walk through a puddle, mud, or the surf, the shoes are dry again after a few steps. The optional minimal sole is made of weatherproof polyurethane, so every bump is transferred, which strengthens the arch of the foot. The unusual shoes are now also being used by some fashion labels, including at Fashion Week in London. The ring mesh is not, as one might expect, cold, hard and scratchy, but rather feels like jewelry on the skin. But since the Paleos are made of metal, they weigh a bit more than other barefoot shoes.
Anyone who decides on one of the many models should, however, bear in mind that the transition to the new shoes can take a good six months. This is because the cartilage, ligaments and muscle structures need this time to get used to the modern Stone Age version of walking again . But it is worth it, because training in minimal shoes achieves strength gains of up to 20 percent in the foot muscles, which also plays a key role in injury prevention.
www.vibram-fivefingers.de
www.leguano.eu
www.wildling.shoes
www.vivobarefoot.com
www.zaqq.de
www.freiluftkind.de
www.sole-runner.com
www.groundies.com
www.gost-barefoots.com
Author • Andreas Eikenroth
Illustration • Uwe van Afferden
Published in Heritage Post No. 50