"Dear workers, the Workwear Department 1920 stands for the optics, robustness and look of workwear from the 1920s. We have been manufacturing this clothing exclusively in Hamburg for more than 25 years."
Holger Peckmann studied fashion design and made costumes for the theater. But unlike in the theater, where appearances are important, his label focuses on inner values: his clothes have to last at least 10 to 15 years - and still look good.
In the past, almost all of the clothing that was made in his studio was made to measure. For the past six years, Holger has been concentrating on his own small collection - two years ago under a different name together with a partner, but that soon stopped. What makes his collection special is its distinctive cuts and the fact that it doesn't chase fashion and reinvent itself every season - it is simply added to piece by piece. That doesn't make old things old. His customers are happy that certain pieces are reappearing in other materials and that older pieces that they have only just discovered are still available. Holger is not specifically inspired by his wardrobe from the past, but by moods, colors and feel.
It is difficult to develop your own "look" these days, but Holger has managed it and he protects it from imitators by using techniques that are not so easy to copy. However, Holger is aware that he cannot invent a new style - the combination is important to him so that the wearer does not have to change his entire wardrobe.
As a collector and lover of fabrics, Holger has set three criteria for his selection: No. 1 durability, No. 2 earth tones and No. 3 made in Germany. Very rarely does he resort to fabrics from Italy when his producers reach their limits with Holger's own creations. With his special and heavy fabrics, he wants to awaken the desire in potential customers to touch the things in order to feel the quality and goodness.
The trousers, vests, shirts, jackets, overalls and coats from Workwear Department 1920 are produced in two manufacturing plants in the Hamburg area - many of them in the company's own studio. The garments are fully machine washable as they do not require adhesive inserts. And to avoid the biggest annoyance for every man - buttons falling off after a short period of use - the horn buttons are sewn on by hand. However, this is also part of Holger Peckmann's philosophy and the appreciation of his own clothing.
Holger often accepts orders to make items for specific sizes. Thanks to his many years of experience, a little information is usually sufficient, so that complete measurements do not always have to be taken. But these orders are just a special service. His main business is his collection, which he has in just two shops in Germany: Uwe van Afferden in Düsseldorf and the Riders Room in Hamburg St. Pauli. His own studio at Holtenklinkerstrasse 20 in Hamburg Bergedorf has also recently opened to customers. Holger does not feel any urge to expand - some people in the fashion industry are too dishonest, as he recently discovered.
Reducing the price of his clothing is taboo anyway. His current business relationships are based primarily on loyalty, because that is the only way to make working together fun.
Holger tests the robustness of his garments himself, but also experiences it again and again when a long-standing customer comes to his studio with an old piece. Holger has had many customers for over 20 years and, together with his long experience, this is the best proof of his quality. Even though it is almost unusual and impossible these days to wear a piece of clothing for decades - even jeans - there are some who don't know any different and are grateful that they can.
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Text • Stefanie Kobayashi | Photos • Oliver Breitwieser